Atelier Gustavo Lins – Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2012-2013

Gustavo Lins is tightening the screws and giving us a synthesis of his work in twelve silhouettes featuring all his hallmark touches: his way of magnifying the female with male clothes, of twirling a T-shirt into an evening dress…
“Women’s collections that are a bit masculine are always the most beautiful! This collection is a mixture of columns and volutes.” “The cut of a suit is the basis of my craft,” he explains, “and as I’m more of a geometricist than a mere draughtsman, I never lose sight of this.”
It’s the build and construction of the sleeves that interests him, but he reinvents his highly architectural cut, allowing it to spiral or slip at the back. Each collection begins with a suit, which tries to be unrecognisable as such. The trousers come from the male wardrobe but are feminised. They are blocked between the muscle at the small of the back and the top of the buttocks : “That’s the crucial area!”
“My role consists in going from one bank of the river to the other, in building little bridges for things to cross over. That’s why the man-woman mixture is so important for me.” The black-on-black embroideries created by Lesage have a raw feel. “The matt black on a wet ground gives the impression of a sculpted volume.”

Gustavo Lins’ guiding principle is the naked body inside every garment. A piece of clothing has to surprise, to be an event and create a relationship between people : “My vision of the garment is increasingly erogenous, one that renders women hyper-sensual yet super-dignified.”
As a preamble to the Couture show in January 2013, which will include a dress made out of twenty-six pieces of Sèvres porcelain, Gustavo Lins has selected six of these pieces for the Sèvres jewellery line. Each module has been lined with metal by Gossens for more solidity. “Porcelain is a sensual material, a mixture of hot and cold. I wanted to exploit its fragility and ephemerality, the contrast between its rigidity and the suppleness of the fabric. Porcelain is like a lightweight armour that is useless because it breaks. Rather Surrealist, but haute couture!”

©2012 The LosAngeles Fashion magazine

to see Gustavo Lins 2013 mens collection click here


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